Thursday, August 13, 2015

NOSTALGIC CHILDHOOD MEMORY OF CROSSING THE GANGES BY FERRY IN CALCUTTA – SILIGURI RAIL ROUTE



NOSTALGIC CHILDHOOD MEMORY OF CROSSING THE GANGES BY FERRY IN CALCUTTA – SILIGURI RAIL ROUTE

I would like to share about crossing of the Ganges by Ferry run by Railways, which might be of interest to those who have not experienced the same and also as a nostalgia to those who had travelled in that Route. To understand this fully by the younger generation, one has to go through little History of Calcutta – Siliguri Rail Route. So I start from the history (collected from various articles on Indian Railways from the net) with my experience coming in due time in this chronicle.

During the British period, all connections to North Bengal were through East Bengal (now Bangladesh). Calcutta – Siliguri Rail Route was in two laps. The first lap was a 185 km journey over Broad Gauge track started in 1878 under Eastern Bengal State Railway from Calcutta Station (later renamed Sealdah) to Damookdeah Ghat on the southern bank of the Padma River. The second lap of the journey was a 336 km Metre gauge line of the North Bengal Railway that linked Saraghat on the northern bank of the Padma to Siliguri, after crossing the river in a ferry run by the Railways. Details of the Ferry service will be given later.

The Hardinge Bridge (1.8 km long - Commonly known as SARA Bridge) across the Padma came up in 1912. In 1926 the Metre-gauge section north of the bridge was converted to Broad gauge, so that entire Calcutta - Siliguri route became broad-gauge. 

Darjeeling Mail, one of the legendary trains in the eastern region of India, started running from this time, thus following the Route : Sealdah - Ranaghat – Banpur – Gede – Darshana – Chuadanga - Bheramara - Hardinge Bridge - Iswardi – Pabna – Santahar - Hili - Parabtipur - Nilphamari - Haldibari -Jalpaiguri - Siliguri. It was thus an overnight journey only like present days.

With the partition of India in 1947, while the main part of the route lay in East Pakistan (Bangladesh now), the two ends of the route lying in India got detached. However, this route continued to be operational till the Indo-Pakistan War of 1965). There being no bridge across the Ganges in West Bengal or Bihar, this dislocation of Route to Siliguri posed a major hurdle in connecting North Bengal with Kolkata. A generally acceptable route to Siliguri was found via Sahibganj Loop to Sakrigali Ghat (and sometimes Sahibganj Ghat) by Train, crossing the Ganges by ferry to Manihari Ghat, then again by Train on metre gauge track via Katihar and Barsoi to Kishanganj and finally narrow gauge to Sliguri [The Narrow gauged Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) was originally from Kishangunge to Darjeeling via Siliguri Jn]. In 1949, Kishanganj-Siliguri section was converted to Metre gauge, thus Sealdah got connected to Siliguri again in two laps, but the time taken was almost 22 Hours.

PART – I 

It is at this stage I come in with my experience of 1953, when I was of 06 years. I was staying at Dinhata (Cooch Behar Dist.) After my sister’s birth at Kolkata, I came back to Dinhata with my Mother and the child accompanied by a Veterinary Doctor of Dinhata, who was our neighbour. I have forgotten his name, but I do remember quite a bit about the Journey.

We started from Sealdah by “North Bengal Express” at around 09-15 AM. The Route was Bardhaman (Via Bally Bridge) – Bolpur – Saithia – Rampurhat – Nalhati – Barharawa – Tinpahar – Sakrigali Jn. - Sakrigali Ghat. We reached Sakrigali Ghat in the afternoon at about 06-00 PM.

Sakrigali Ghat Station used to be a temporary one on the Sandy bank of the Ganges, needing shifting from time to time commensurate to the changes in the course of the Ganges. Due to this reason, there was no Platform as such and the rooms of the Station were Hut type made with Bamboo strips as well as the end point of the Train used to be Sahibganj Jn. at times for boarding Ferry at Sahibganj Ghat instead of Sakrigali.

There were four classes of accommodation in the train in those days – First, Second, Inter and Third. The Ferry used to be a Large Double Decker Steam Launch having Inter & Third class at the lower deck and First & Second class at the upper deck. The Upper deck was furnished with cushioned Sofa type seats – the First class demarcated from the Second by a Restaurant serving Snacks and A-La-Cart or Thali Dinner. The Ferry service used to be operated by Private Agencies, but under the management of the Railways, hence through Ticket used to be issued from Sealdah to the Stations in North Bengal inclusive of Ferry Charges – Food charges at the Ferry was of course to be paid extra.

Coming back to the journey, we had to pass over a long area of Sandy River Bank to the Ferry. The River was quite wide at Sakrigali Ghat, but there was a Land mass (CHAR) in between, hence the Ferry used to sail straight and cross the river through a U-turn to Manihari Ghat. The Steam Launch left at about 07-00 PM and reached Manihari Ghat at about 08-30 PM (after one and a half hour). This was also a make-shift station, but not changing frequently like Sakrigali Ghat.

Here also we had to travel quite a distance over sand to the Station to board the Metre Guage “North Bengal Express” to Guahati, which left at 09-30 PM. The Route was Katihar – Barsoi – Kishangunge – Aluabari Road – Siliguri. We reached Siliguri at about 07-30 AM next day. It is Aluabari Road, from where the New Broad gauge line from Malda Town takes a different course to New Jalpaiguri.

There used to be another train named “Assam Link Express” leaving Manihari Ghat in the morning to Guwahati. This train was accessible from Sealdah through (the-then) 13 UP/14DN “Upper India Express” from Sealdah to Delhi via Sahibganj Loop, which used to leave Sealdah at night to reach Sakrigali Jn. in the morning.

Since Jalpaiguri had to be accessed through Siliguri only after Partition of 1947, the Broad Guage Line from Haldibari (the Border with Bangladesh) to Siliguri was converted to Metre Guage in 1949. Ironically, the same line had to be re-converted to Broad gauge in 1963 after coming up of the New Station “New Jalpaiguri” near Siliguri on the new Broad gauge Track.

PART – II

Construction of Farakka Barrage across the Ganges River was started in 1961 and completed in 1975 with operations beginning on April 21, 1975. A railway line over this Barrage was thought as a solution to link North Bengal with Kolkata via Maldah and action started.

Accordingly, a railway line was laid from Tildanga Station on the BAK ( Bandel – Azimgunge - Katwa ) Loop near Barharwa Junction to a new Station named “Farakka Ghat”, a Ferry service was introduced to the opposite side across the river, where a new station “Khejuria Ghat” was made.

While Farakka Ghat Station was more or less a fixed one having some sort of Platform, the Station Khejuria Ghat, like Sakrigali Ghat, had no Platform as such and the rooms of the Station were Hut type made with Bamboo strips.

My father working as Chief Medical Officer, Calcutta Jails in 1961 was ordered to move to Maldah. I was in Class 10 at Mitra Institution (Main), Kolkata. Since the transfer of my father would take some time and my Jethu (Late) Dr. PC Roy Chowdhury being settled at Maldah at that time, it was decided that I would be sent to Maldah by December 1961 accompanied by my Elder Brother, so that I can start Class XI there from the beginning of the session.

My Dada was a bit adventurous type, hence he planned to explore this new route. In late December of 1961, we boarded the same “North Bengal Express” at Sealdah which left at about the same time as earlier, but got down at Barharwa Junction at about 4-30 PM. From there, we took a newly introduced Passenger Train (on the newly laid track) to Farakka Ghat. It ran almost with the speed of a cart passing over several Culverts and small Bridges under construction (therefore balanced over wooden frames) and we reached farakka at about 6-00 pm!!

The Ferry Service here was similar to Sakrigali – Manihari type but with a major difference in that, here the Ferry was not a Steam Launch as such, but a large Double Deck “Tug” type marine vessel (Gada Boat) to be towed by a Steamer. Like Sakrigali – Manihari service, this vessel had Inter & Third class at the bottom and First & Second class at the upper deck. Furnished with cushioned Sofa type seats, the First class was demarcated from the Second by a Restaurant serving Snacks and A-La-Cart or Thali Dinner. Food was also available in the Hutments at Khejuria Ghat. 

The MV started after an hour at about 7-00 PM, crossing the river took around one hour to cross the river and reached Khejuria Ghat at about 8-00 PM. There was a Passenger Train waiting for us, by which we reached Maldah at about 10-30 PM. The Station here was named “Malda Town”, but was known commonly as “JHALJHALIA” after the local name of the place. The station was dimly lighted with sandy platform. Train service at that time was up to Malda Town only (from Khejuria Ghat) and subsequently extended by end of 1962 to Barsoi Jn. to meet the existing Metre Gauge line to Siliguri.

From 1964, the said “North Bengal Express” was renamed as “Darjeeling Mail” terminating at Farakka Ghat instead of Sakrigali Ghat and after crossing the river through the ferry sevice, one had to board another “Darjeeling Mail” from Khejuria Ghat to New Jalpaiguri. The train used to leave Kolkata at about 9-45 AM, reach Farakka around 5-30 PM, its counter Part reaching New jalpaiguri in the early morning of the next day, leaving Khejuria Ghat by 9-00 PM.
The rail bridge over Farakka was thrown open to the public in 1971, thereby linking Kolkata with North Bengal. The same Darjeeling Mail then started leaving Sealdah at night to reach New Jalpaiguri next Morning, like the Original Darjeeling Mail of the Pre-Independence days.
Dipak Raychaudhuri
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35 comments:

  1. Hi...This is most fascinating historical account. Being a railfan I thoroughly enjoyed it and learnt new things...I never found such a detailed north bengal journey account earlier...My request is keep writing articles like this...with as much detail as possible...Thank you so much...

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    1. Thank you, Mr. Nag for your encouraging comments. Please feel free to other topics in this Blog of mine.

      Dipak Raychaudhuri

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  2. You have said "Construction of Farakka Barrage across the Ganges River was started in 1961 and completed in 1975 with operations beginning on April 21, 1975." Later, you mention train services started in 1971 over the barrage. In the former, 'operations' mean the operations of the barrage? Btw, nice writeup, I had heard a good bit of this from my father.

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    1. Yes, Farakka as a Rly Bridge started operating from 1971, but the operation of Farakka as Barrage started from April 21, 1975.

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  3. Sir when did Siliguri Jn get Broad Gauge back? Was it in 1971?

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  4. Dear Mr. Sridharan Sir,

    Siliguri Jn. Got BG Back very recently when the MG Route Siliguri - New Mal - Alipurduar Jn was converted to BG. Exact date is not known to me but I can tell you confidently that at least it was not before 2005.

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    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  7. Sir SGUJ got BG between 2000 and 2003. NJP-SGUJ became BG during 2000-2003 period. But I did not know when SGUJ-APDJ was converted, now I know. Thanks Dipak Sir for the info.

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  8. Dipak Sir, did SGUT get BG in 1971 or did it take till 2000s to get BG. But sir, nice article. I learnt a lot from this article.

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  9. Join this onlne community for Any suggestions to Indian Government for Suggestions for Railway | Indian railways | Train Enquiry

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  10. Many thanks for the excellent write-up, Mr. Raychaudhury. Revived a lot of old memories dating back to 1954, when I, as a 5 year old kid, travelled to Kalimpong from Calcutta by North Bengal Express for the first time (to be followed by many later). It was so thrilling!

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  11. Dear Mr. Basu,

    Thanks for your comments. You are just two years younger than me, so basically you are my contemporary. In fact, the idea of starting my blog was to revive old memories to older people as well as to provide an authentic history/account of the Railway services in the good old days. Thanks , once again.

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  12. Dear Mr. Raychaudhuri,
    Excellent.
    (1) Was the NB Exp numbered 43/44? Memory suggests popular daily ABP had proudly announced the 'coming back' of Darjeeling Mail in new avatar - it was perhaps mentioned there that the same 43/44 NB exp was being renamed and re-routed as Darjeeling Mail.
    (2) At least from March,1965 till Farakka 1971, was the NFR Darjeeling Mail (Khejuriaghat-NJP) numbered 11/12?
    (3) Was there one Exp train from Khejuriaghat to Bongaigaon which used to trail the Darjeeling Mail? Was it New Bongaigaon Exp, numbered 5/6 - considered to be pre-avatar of Kamrup?
    Regards
    Pabitra Mukherjee

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    1. Dear Mr. Mukhopadhyay,

      First of all thank you for going through my blog.

      As to your questions, my reply is YES to (1) & (3)but I am not sure about (2).

      Regards

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  13. Great Blog Mr. Raychaudhuri. My memory of this journey from Gangarampur to Kolkata is not very clear as I was very young. but I remember the bus journey from Gangarampur to Rajmahal, ferry at Tinpahar and onward journey to Kolkata. It is such a fond memory. thank you for the detailed account.

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    1. Thanks dear for going through my Blog. Your are slightly wrong in your statement in that, the Bus Journey from Gangarampur was up to Manekchak Ghat (via Maldah)and NOT Rajmahal Ghat. The ferry was between Manekchak Ghat and Rajmahal Ghat. A Branch line used to connect Rajmahal with Tinpahar Jn.Before opening up of Farakka Bridge, this was the Route for going to Maldah and West Dinajpur.

      Regards

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    2. Thank you for the clarification Mr. Raychaudhuri. As I said, I don't remember the entire route vividly. The name Manikchak doesn't ring a bell though I remember the other places. Was the bus journey took us from Gangarampur to Maldah and then a separate connection to Manikchak (may be a train)? Also, how would Tinpahar come into picture if there is a direct connection from Rajmahal to Kolkata (Howrah or Sealdah). I remember having seen Tinpahar (three distinct peaks) from the ferry. Probably we once had supper too at Tinpahar before boarding the train. I also remember the long sandy beach (may be on one side). If you kindly map the complete route from Gangarampur to Kolkata, I will be really grateful. We used to make the journey in 1965-66 when I was about 4 years old. Thanks again and regards.

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  14. Yes Sir, the normal route was from Balurghat to Maldah via Gangarampur and then shuttle bus services from Maldah to Manikchak Ghat(There was no Rly connection). There were a few direct buses, however, plying between Manikchak Ghat to Balurghat/Raigunge via Maldah, Gazol, Buniadpur and Gangarampur (for Balurghat) and via Maldah, Gazol, Buniadpur for Raigunge. I stayed in Balurghat in 1959 as a boy of 12 years and stayed in Maldah in 1962-63, hence these information are absolutely authentis from my ,own experience.

    Regarding Tinpahar, please note that Tinpahar jn. was in the Main line of Sahebgunge Loop (Howrah/Sealdah - Bardhaman- Bolpur - Saithia Jn. - Rampurhat - Nalhati Jn. - Pakur - Barharwa Jn. - Tinpahar Jn. - Sakrigali Jn. - Sahebgunge), wherefrom the Branch line upto Rajmahal broke of.It was the ghat at rajmahal, from where the ferry used to go to Manekchak Ghat. To your remark "Probably we once had supper too at Tinpahar before boarding the train", it may be possible that due to late running of North Bengal Express (the only express train at daytime - schedule arrival was around 5 PM), you had to take supper before boarding the Shuttle Train to Rajmahal.The express train at night was 13 Up/14Dn Upper India Express departing from Sealdah at night and arriving at Tinpahar in the 4 O'Clock early morning, on its way to Delhi Jn via Sahebgunge, kiul, Patna.

    There was a train Sealdah Gaya Passanger leaving Sealdah at around 10 PM, which had One First Class and one Third Class Through Coaches to be attached to the Tinpahar - Rajmahal Shuttle for thePassengers to Maldah/West Dinajpur Zone, thus in this case there was no alightment at Tinpahar.Thanks and regards.

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  15. Thank you Mr. Raychaudhuri for the detailed information. It now appears that we traveled from Gangarampur to Maldah by bus (coming from Balurghat), then boarded a shuttle bus to Manikchak ghat to catch the ferry to Rajmahal. From the riverbank at Rajmahal we would take the train to Tinpahar and then another train to Sealdah. Do you think this is correct? We must have followed the same travel route when my dad was transferred to Rampurhat (from Gangarampur). Thank you for providing the minute details that helped me re-live that great childhood experience. For long I am living away in Canada and in spite of widely travelling to almost all parts of the world, the journey from Gangarampur to Kolkata (and back) remains one of my fondest memories. Thanks and regards, Manas Mukherjee.

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    1. Dear Mr. Mukherjee,
      Thank you for your keen interest in the reconstruction of a childhood journey.
      Yes, your Statement “It now appears that we traveled from Gangarampur to Maldah by bus (coming from Balurghat), then boarded a shuttle bus to Manikchak ghat to catch the ferry to Rajmahal. From the riverbank at Rajmahal we would take the train to Tinpahar and then another train to Sealdah” is correct as such. However, chances were also there, that you might have travelled by one of the few direct buses from Balurghat to Manikchak Ghat without breaking the journey at all at Maldah.
      My father was posted as District Medical Officer at Balurghat in 1959, when I was a boy of 12 Years. The only connection to Balurghat from Kolkata at that time was via this route. After a spell of transfers to Midnapur, Birbhum and Kolkata, He got posted at Maldah as Chief Medical Officer in 1963 and he and my mother followed the same route by the Sealdah-Rajmahal Trough Coach attached to Sealdah-Gaya Passenger. I came earlier to Maldah in December 1962 via the newly constructed Barharwa – Farakka Ghat BG Line, as I have narrated at Part – II of my Blog. Thus, what I have told you is from my personal experience, hence absolutely authentic.
      Thanks to you once again. Please also go through other posts of this Blog of mine to know about some interesting facts of Indian Railways.
      With Warm Regards
      Dipak Raychaudhuri

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    2. Thanks a lot again for the details Mr. Raychaudhuri. I have also gone through your other posts and found them very impressive. Talking about my journey from Gangarampur, one confusion is that somehow I feel we came to a railway station by bus and then took a train to the ferry. May be I am wrong as I don’t remember much. Regards, Manas Mukherjee

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  16. What a vivid account, that by and large covers the whole of the nostalgic and amazing route to be enjoyed by one like me who travelled over this route in his childhood several times having stayed in Gauhati for a few years.The period covers your childhood and for that matter mine too having been born in 1953.Dada could you please share your contact no?

    আমি ভ্রমণ পাগল মানুষ। জানিনা ঠাকুর সেই পরমালোক, এর পরে পৃথিবীটাকে কেমন রাখবেন । আবার একইভাবে ঘুরতে পারবো নাকি অন্য কিছু।
    একটা প্রশ্ন আছে, ১৯৬২র সময় মালদা থেকে njp কি ট্রেনে যাওয়া যেত না? আর newly extension to boe নিশ্চয় mg ছিল?

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  17. Thanks, Mr. Raychaudhui for your vivid account of railway journey before Farakka bridge connection from Kolkata to North Bengal. I stumbled upon your blog post in Facebook. I heard about the circuitous route of earlier journeys after independence, but never a direct experience as yours. Thanks and my regards.

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  18. I would have welcomed more details of the ferry crossing and the vessel employed at the time of the author's crossing of the Ganges.

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    1. Dear Sir,

      The Ferry crossing I narrated was in 1961 - 60years back when I was a boy of 16 years.Naturally,therefore,it is not possible for me to provide any further detail information.

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  19. I stayed at Farakka for 5 years in 60s during my high school days. I recall that the station was "Farakka" without any Ghat in the name. All the trains including legendary Darjeeling Mail terminated here for onward ferry crossing by passengers bag and baggage. All goods wagons were terminated in the yards here and subsequently ferried by continuous marshaling. The trucks were ferried a few kilometers downstream of Farakka near Beniagram LCT ghat. When the new railway line was operational over the barrage in very early 71 or so, a new station named "New Farakka" was established effectively abandoning the old "Farakka" station.

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    1. That's right! I was wondering why Beniagram is missing?

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  20. I enjoyed the write up so much. Thank you.

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  21. Dear Mr. Sarkar,

    Thanks for the appreciation.

    About your statement "I recall that the station was "Farakka" without any Ghat in the name", you are right - it was only "Farakjka" and not "Farakka Ghat".I used the term "Farakka Ghat" just to denote that it was the Ghat at the western side of the Ganges. "Khejuria Ghat" was the Rly station on the other side.After opening up of the Rly Bridege at Farakka, the old Farakka Station as well as the Stn Khejuria Ghat were abandoned and the "New Farakka" Stn came up.The older connection was Khejuria ghat - Chamagram - Khaltipur - Jamirghata - Malda Town and the newer line from New Farakka joined directly to this route at Chamagram after crossing the Ganges.

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  22. Sorry, it is not FARAJKA as typed, it is a typographical error.it should be FARAKKA

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